The English designer who began her monumental career with Chloé back in 1997 quickly established herself. Once Stella McCartney’s right-hand woman and design assistant, it wasn’t long before she was leading the way, succeeding her as creative director in 2001. Since then the name Phoebe Philo has left a lasting impression.

During her tenure at Chloé, the first ready-to-wear house, Philo embraced designs outside the norm; she wasn’t afraid to play with gender specific ideals. She designed clothes for women to feel alive in, for themselves. Following her succession to the brand, came a leather-goods upheaval, also known as the Paddington; an oversized slouchy handbag that hung from the elbow crook of all the A-list celebrities of that era. The leather accessory that sported a giant padlock became the ‘it’ bag of the early 00s and put Chloé and its creative director on the map. The trailblazer designer later rightfully became known as the ‘Chanel of her generation.’

Chloé was only Philo’s first baby, in 2008 she ventured into Céline, where she rejuvenated the brand through her mastery of laissez-faire chic. Her emphasis during this time on relaxed silhouettes and meticulous tailoring propelled Céline into a fashion phenomenon. In 2017, after a decade and much success with the fashion house, Philo resigned from her role. The acclaimed designer retreated, and for almost seven years, was nowhere to be seen, until now. Ready to jump back into the spotlight, in 2021 she announced she would launch a brand under her own name.

Phoebe Philo, the brand embodies all of her greatest triumphs transformed into a namesake that is unmistakably her own. After a long awaited release date, she unveiled her eponymous brand in October last. Her masculin-féminin theme continues through the use of minimalistic leather apparel and accessories.

She’s doing it all on her own terms this time around. It was a bold move to create an entirely new brand when she could have easily transitioned into a creative director role at an established house. This isn’t a passion project; she’s not naive to the fact she has to sell product, especially as she and her husband are both majority owners of the business. LVMH, the luxury group that was her employer at Celine, holds a minority stake in the new venture.

When confirming her plans to lead her own independent fashion house, Philo clarified that she would be selling “clothing and accessories rooted in exceptional quality and design”, and while the price tags on her pieces aren’t for the faint hearted, her first collection sold out in a matter of hours. Obviously, her six year hiatus left people yearning for delicate silk draping and satisfyingly hefty knitwear (and we can see why). It was expected her debut collection would reflect more of a quiet luxury tone, instead, Philo delivered recognisable luxurious minimalism with a surprising sensuality and a distinctive raw edge.

HER COMMITMENT TO RETURNING TO HER ROOTS AND BUILDING A LONG-STANDING SUSTAINABLE, QUALITY-DRIVEN FASHION HOUSE IS ADMIRABLE. AND HER STRONG SENSE OF SELF LEAVES US ONLY WANTING MORE.

She has chosen to break away from tradition, in true Philo style. After all, let's not forget she was the first creative director to take maternity leave. The fashion house will not follow the conventional fashion calendar, rather we will be presented with partial collections that will be dispersed throughout the seasons, but if you’re thinking that means we’ll get an abundance of her designs, think again. Conscious about their carbon footprint, and the detrimental impact fashion has on the global warming crisis, the brand is committed to running a contained, well-managed supply chain, 'We are committed to minimising waste and avoiding overproduction by producing notably less than anticipated demand.' Meaning when it's gone, it's gone.

The enigmatic London based designer, who is notoriously private, and gives very few interviews while not engaging with social media, is alluring to us as we only know her through her designs.

As seen in Casper Magazine.